As a biologist, few phrases are as exciting as 'old growth forest'. The very phrase brings to mind ancient forests that pre-date the United States, and forests that offer a chance to see what the region was like before the USA's westward expansion. I have been lucky in my life to see several old growth forests, but I find myself constantly seeking the presence of giants. Once, while I was working in Idaho, I stumbled upon a grove of ancient Western Red Cedars Thuja plicata that were in an area inaccessible to loggers. As I walked around their 10+ foot diameter trunks, it seemed that I had entered a land untouched by time. Considering these trees may have been a thousand years old, I wondered just how much the grove had witnessed. I find myself still daydreaming about the idyllic gorge they dominate and what creatures live there now.
When I was reading about things in the Chicagoland area, I was immediately intrigued by Warren Woods State Park. Located in nearby Berrien County, Michigan, the park possesses a large climax Beech-Maple Forest. Intrigued by the idea of once again walking among giants, I talked to my friend, Ryan Fuller, about the region, and he decided that an small expedition was warranted.
And so, at 8:20 in the morning on 24 September 2016, Ryan and I found ourselves on a shaded road in southwestern Michigan. I was armed with my binoculars and my camera; Ryan with (my wife's) binoculars, his backpack, and his snake stick. We were unfortunately joined by thousands of mosquitoes, but decided that our desire to see the forest was greater than our desire to remain in possession of our blood.
It was all worth it.
A view of the climax Beech-Maple Forest in Berrien County, Michigan.
Ryan posing next to a Sugar Maple Acer saccharum.
While I followed Black-throated Green Warblers Setophaga virens through the tree crowns, Ryan focused on flipping over logs and working methodically through the underbrush. He found several millipedes, beetles, and other invertebrates, but he also found a new creature for us both: multiple Red-backed Salamanders Plethodon cinereus! These lungless amphibians live in forest undergrowth, and were amazing to encounter so close to our new home.
One of several Red-backed Salamanders we encountered.
As the day progressed, more people (almost all students) appeared in the woods to also enjoy and learn about this fantastic place. We were even able to show one group (from Notre Dame) some of the Red-backed Salamanders living in the forest understorey.
We began working our way out of the woods, and lucked upon several more migrants near the parking lot. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla and Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia foraged in the trees, and we even got brief looks at Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina and Grey-cheeked Thrush Catharus minima. Eventually, the mosquitoes succeeded in driving us away from the enchanted forest, but not before we compiled a fantastic fall bird list.
After departing the woods, we stopped by Nani's Cafe for some excellent home made root beer and the best hot dog I've ever had, and made our way to a nearby parking lot to catch up on the sleep we had foregone to make the drive to Michigan.
After resting a bit, we headed into Warren Dunes State Park, and were treated to even more fantastic Midwestern hardwood forest, including a particularly nice grove of Eastern Hemlock Tsuga canadensis.
Eastern Hemlock in Berrien County.
Eventually, we had to return to Chicago, but our minds remained in Michigan. Our trip to Michigan provided us with a chance to relax, but it also had the opposite effect: it had re-energized us, and made us even more determined to promote the conservation and education of the systems we will study during our PhD's at the University of Chicago.
It's going to be a great six years.